Monday, March 30, 2009

Rumba Island Bar and Grill


I wasn’t expecting to hit a new restaurant this weekend. I had a busy week at work and I wanted to do a little boating and enjoy my own kitchen. When our plans changed and we stumbled out for lunch, our thought was to hit the beach for one of our favorite places but again, plans were derailed. Spring break beach traffic became backed up before we got 5 miles from the beach. So with my oldest daughter following in her car with her boyfriend, we ducked into the parking lot of a restaurant on Gulf to Bay Blvd. in Clearwater that I’ve wanted to try for some time. The Rumba Island Bar and Grill just looks like a place I would like. From the bamboo and palm tree décor to the tiki style bar serving rum runner’s 2 for 1, this place seems more suited to be beachfront than on a busy intersection at Keene and Gulf to Bay. I might have enjoyed a cocktail at the outdoor bar but having 4 kids under 21 with us precluded that.

After being seated and ordering a round of drinks, we checked out the menu. Impressive, I thought. If these items were fresh, this place is sure to be a winner. The menu is mostly the standard Caribbean takes on delicious and fresh ingredients with an eye to crisp and clean flavor. There were so many great choices on the appetizer menu but I chose two conch preparations. The Conch Fritters and the Conch Ceviche were both pleasing. Notably, these fritters were as good as I’ve ever tasted. They were light and pillow-y with no resemblance to their southern US corn fritter cousin (which I think is much heavier). I loved their take on them and the jerk aioli for dipping was wonderfully tangy. Lisa, who boasts her dislike for most seafood, enjoyed these too. I wished I could have tried more from the appetizers because the list included some of my favorites like Coconut Prawns, Mussels in Saffron Infused Coconut Milk, Calamari and Fish Spread.

The rest of the menu was pretty exciting too, I thought. I wasn’t sure if it was their signature dish or not but they offered these rice bowls made with shrimp, coconut rice, fruit, vegetables then topped with your choice of other fish such as BBQ Salmon or blackened Mahi or jerk chicken. I almost went this direction but I saw one of my favorite selections so I chose that. I have a soft spot for soft shell crab, if you’ll pardon the pun.

It has a texture like none other and throughout the same whole crab, the flavor ranges from ultra mild to pretty fishy (and I happen to like that). In case you don’t know, soft shell crab is just crab that has molted and not grown into its new shell yet. Seems a bit unfair, really, to take these little guys in that vulnerable window of time but I love them nonetheless. I thought it was spectacular and I could have eaten a couple of more. If I have to pick on something, it would have to be the slaw. I was a bit put off by the pineapple. I love pineapple but it felt out of place to me.

Lisa ordered a salad. Jerk chicken to be exact. It looked just spectacular. I tasted it. The traditional flavor collideascope of allspice, pepper and clove shined in the jerk seasoning. The salad was marvelous and hearty. I was jealous. Again, Lisa was pleased and if you ever went out to dinner with her, you would know this was not a small feat. I usually leave NEW places off the list for her until I’ve scoped out the possibilities. This was a winner.

What was really nice about the whole affair was my oldest daughter, Brittany, was visiting for the day from Ft. Lauderdale with her boyfriend. It was a great opportunity for the family to just sit, relax and enjoy a good meal. I give Rumba Bar and Grill a thumbs up and recommend you find out for yourself.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Grilled Chicken, Bacon Baked Potato and Beer Braised Cabbage


I was watching the national weather the other day and I realized that spring has not sprung everywhere. CNN was reporting snow in the mountain states and many ski resorts are doing great business. My friends in New England and my family in Washington DC were reporting fairly cold temperatures still. Here in Florida though, the temperatures have been in the upper 70’s for weeks and our spring is in full swing. As a young man, this weather turns a man’s interest to the pursuit of young ladies but approaching middle age, my grill has become more appealing. Now I don’t want to sound cynical, because I tell Lisa how much hotter I find her each day, but my mental capacity has expanded to include more than one narrow range of thoughts in the spring.
I seem to go in phases with my grill but in the past few months, she has become ever more important to me. Recently, I grilled up some chicken that was out of this world and made a couple of sides that we must talk about. Now I want to take credit for the potatoes that we’re going to explore, but I must admit, it came from elsewhere. I don’t recall exactly where I saw this recipe but, no matter, it is not completely original. The bacon slats came from either a TV show or magazine, but the ricotta and horseradish were completely mine. I remembered seeing the potatoes cut with slats in them allowing slices of bacon to be slid between. Baking these off (wrapped in foil for 45 minutes) allows the bacon to flavor the whole potato and create a silky and luxurious texture. Broiling the potatoes (removed from foil) in the last 2-3 minutes of their cooking crisps up the bacon bits sticking out and using a Yukon Gold potato means that natural butteriness is present throughout. Then, I stepped things up a bit by adding a bit of horseradish to some ricotta and making a bed to sit the potato in. This worked. That mild ricotta cheese flavor infused with the horseradish goes just exquisitely with the bacon flavor. Aside from salt and pepper, 4 ingredients. YUM!!!!

The other side dish was a bit of beer braised red cabbage and I have come to decide that this is going to be a serious staple in our house. I loved it and would eat it over and over. Slowly cooking this veggie produces a pleasantly sweet flavor that calls for remaking. I began by sautéing a bit of red cabbage with some butter. Once a bit soft, I added a good beer (Stella Artois), brought that to a boil then reduced the heat to low. After about 40 minutes, most of the liquid was gone leaving a great concentration of flavor. A last bit of butter then serve. It’s just that simple.
I have decided that there is really no way to sum up in a brief article how to perfectly grill a piece of chicken (or any meat for that matter). There e are a lot of factors to consider. How hot is the grill? How close is the meat to the heat? Do you want to smoke? Do you want to grill? Do you want to add a bit of barbeque sauce? … Do you see what I’m saying? Very tough. The only real grilling rule for chicken I can think to tell you is this: It takes a bit of practice to cook a whole chicken on a grill so that it is perfectly cooked through but not burned on the outside. For this bird, I cut it in two and grill each half separately. I think the key is to keep the bird over indirect heat for most of the cooking so that it gets cooked through. At the end, I give it a few more minutes over the direct coals to finish off the skin.
So here you have the final product. Now normally, I go through the motions to write out the steps of each recipe but in this case, I think the article along with the photos are self explanatory. Like the theme that runs through most of my writing, there are very few hard fast rules. If you want to use wine to braise the cabbage, that’d be delicious. Add a little garlic too. Try these potatoes though. They were really exceptional. You could melt a bit of your favorite cheese at the end, too.
I love spring.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Atlanta's Flip Burger Boutique

Signature burger, vodka battered onion rings and Greek slaw



Sorry if I’ve been away from this page for a little longer than usual. I have a good excuse. You see, it was bound to happen eventually and I simply had to go back to work. While I found my early and forced retirement to be a very pleasant (and conducive to writing), that nagging little problem of money would have eventually crept into the picture. Employed again, getting settled in and with newly arrived laptop in hand, I should be back to the blog.

My second week with the new company found me in Atlanta. Atlanta is a great town for a foodie. I don’t say this because I’ve explored many nooks and crannies of that city but because of the times I have visited, my dining experiences have been noteworthy. Last week was no different. Since I didn’t have my computer with me, I didn’t have the usual benefit of perusing the dining scene online. I used the old fashioned way of actually reading reviews in local magazines. One magazine (you know the one that’s published seasonally and put in every hotel room? -that one) had an article about the uprising of celebrity owned or inspired restaurants in the Atlanta area. The one that caught my eye was Richard Blais’ creation called Flip. Blais is a serious young chef with an unparalleled flare. He graduated from New York’s Culinary Institute of America and apprenticed under some prestigious names. Last year he was the runner up on Bravo’s Top Chef and, while he was the front runner most of the season, fell in the final round.

Now I’ve had problems with celebrity restaurants before. I’ll name names people. I have had less than great food at places owned by Gloria Estefan, Keyshawn Johnson (football player), Spike (another Top Chef celebrity) and a couple others I won’t mention. Name recognition might get them in the door but the food has to win them back. Still there was something special about Richard Blais. He was my favorite to win and I consistently wanted to try the creations he offered to the judges week after week. So off to Flip it is.

Flip pays homage to the burger. If you think you’ve eaten a burger just about every way possible, this place will open your eyes to a whole new way of doing it and you will be thrilled. For the beef burgers they grind their own combination of Hangar steak, Brisket and Short rib to get a perfect ratio of hearty taste and just enough fat. Then Blais carefully crafts the perfect and unique burger condiments. From smoked mayo to housemade pickles, these menu items are well thought out and difficult to decide amongst. If you really are in the mood to spend a small fortune on 5.5 oz of burger, you can order the Japanese Kobe beef burger with seared Fois Gras for $45. On the right side of the menu are the non beef choices. Things like ground pork or turkey, tuna or lamb made in different ethnic styles from Cuban to Vietnamese.

Personally I chose the Lamburger. It was topped with green olive relish, cucumber yogurt, homemade raisin catsup and mint. It was like visiting Istanbul on a bun. These traditional Mediterranean flavors married so well with the tender juicy burger that I almost forgot I was eating a burger. It really was more of a high end offering the like I’ve seen at places like Chef Andre’s Washington DC establishment, Zaytinyas. I was impressed, thrilled even. The sides on the menu are as equally creative as the burgers. You can enjoy vodka battered onion rings, tempura asparagus or sweet potato tots.

My lamburger

Then there are the shakes. On Top Chef, Blais was known for his use of liquid nitrogen to get that smoky effect and his shakes bear this trademark. While the Krispy Kreme doughnut and Nutella and Marshmallow shakes seem to be the most popular, I decided I had to try the Fois Gras shake. C’mon. That’s creative. Ingredients: Ice Cream, milk, amaretto and Fois Gras. No self respecting foodie would turn down the opportunity to try this. Taste? Well… like a milk shake. Since I knew Fois Gras was in there, I could taste it but if I hadn’t known, I wouldn’t have guessed. OK then, I’m glad I tasted it and while I liked it, I don’t think I’ll spend another $9 on a milkshake any time soon.

Fois Gras milkshake

If you want to visit Flip, you’ll need a bit of patience. There is always a wait. The good news is that the place turns over quickly, you can gawk at the burgers passing by and they have a full bar. The crowd on the night I was there was young and hip and the atmosphere is really conducive to having a good time. The layout and décor are exactly as I might have expected; modern straight lines, polished steel and dotted with a few bright colors. It very much has the feel of one of those Hollywood techniques where the film is black and white but the apple is red. Probably my favorite feature of the room are the framed TV’s behind the bar. It was just a hot touch.


Atlanta should be very proud to have this place. It is a stand out amongst restaurants and most towns don’t have anything close.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Bacon Wrapped Monkfish with Spicy Horseradish Aioli


Have you ever had Monkfish? It’s not horribly common and I’ve never seen it in the grocery store. The only offerings I’ve had have been in restaurants and I’ve found the flavor just remarkable. The other day I stumbled across a fish market that was a bit off the beaten path in Ozona, Florida and I was pleasantly surprised to see the fillets in the case. I asked the fishmonger about it and he told me they had just gotten this in fresh within the hour. Sold. Monkfish in hand, I headed home and began my little mental menu.

So many people are intimidated by fish but I find it cooks easier that almost anything else I create. From prep to finished meal is usually less than 30 minutes and Monkfish is no different. This exceedingly ugly animal is often compared to lobster for its firm texture and sweet taste. While I see that analogy, I think of Monkfish as a delicacy all its own and I frequently order it when I see it on a restaurant menu. I prepared 2 separate meals from this and both were delicious. The first one was so simple, it doesn’t really deserve too much discussion. I butter poached the fish then served it over some homemade potato chips. It was quite lovely. If you want to impress a crowd, make your own potato chips sometime and serve them with an elegant meal.

The next day I took a bit more time and made a seasoning of Cayenne, paprika, salt, garlic powder, onion powder and cumin. I lightly dusted cut up chunks of the raw fish then wrapped each in bacon and skewered them. They were then grilled over coals just to get a crust on the bacon. While the monkfish rested, I put together a super quick aioli with mayo, horseradish, Dijon mustard, and a dash of the spice rub. For the bottom of the plate I simply blanched then quick sautéed some sugar snap peas in butter. They perfectly retained their color and crunch but gave up a more tender bite. Biting into this fish produces a myriad of wonderful flavors and all perfectly accompanying to the delicate and succulent center of the fish. Sweet and rich and akin to a scallop, the monkfish does have its own flavor that is pure, clean and remarkably fresh. You could easily pay 25 bucks for this entrée at any decent seafood restaurant but you will rock a dinner party with this and it takes about 30 minutes top to bottom.

If you want to give Monkfish a go, I suggest finding a good seafood market and asking the fishmonger about it. I have been told that it is fished in Florida but all of my online research tells me that it comes from the Northeast. Since it is quite popular in parts of Asia too, it must have a broad ocean range so I suspect it can be fished in most places.

Please enjoy.

Bacon Wrapped Monkfish with Spicy Horseradish Aioli and Crispy Sugar Snap Peas

1 tsp Cayenne pepper
1 tsp paprika
2 tsp salt
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp cumin
(This the spice mix I make but you could easily substitute your own or even a store bought like Old Bay)
16 oz Monkfish fillets cut into about 20 “scallop sized” pieces
10 strips of bacon, cut in half
2 tbsp Mayo
2 tsp prepared horseradish
1 tsp Dijon Mustard
2 tbsp butter
2 cups sugar snap peas

Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes beforehand. Mix the first 6 spices up in a small bowl. Lightly dust the fish with this. It should enhance the flavor but too much will overwhelm the delicate Monkfish. Wrap each piece of fish with bacon and circle the piece only once. Overlap just a bit. Trim excess bacon. Skewer through the overlapped portion and do not have too much extra.

Place on a hot grill and sear each side, depending on the temperature 2 minutes per side should do it. Can be done on the stove top or even the oven for that matter.

Mix the mayo, horseradish, mustard and about a tsp of the spice mix together in a small bowl.

For the peas, blanch in boiling water for about 30-60 seconds then remove them to a bowl of ice water. In a sauté pan melt the butter over medium heat and add the well drained peas. Warm through but do not brown.

Divide peas to 4 plates. Top each with bacon wrapped monkfish and place a small amount of the Aioli on each piece of fish.

Serves 4.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Grilled Asian Skirt Steak with Arugula Salad and Garlic Potato Rounds


Have you watched the news lately? Apparently, the economy isn’t doing so well. They say that January saw more layoffs in one month since 1974. Wow! I almost got through January but on the 27th, I became one of those statistics too. Now it’s not all bad folks. My career field is actually in demand so I will be back at work before I even want to. For now though, I’m enjoying my time off and I’m wondering how I was able to get anything done with that silly ole’ job in the way. I am also becoming reacquainted with my kitchen. I have missed her. She was neglected, I think. Last year, I circled the globe and dined in Europe, Asia and at least a dozen major US cities but my amazing little kitchen just sat here waiting for me to return to her. Her patient granite sorely underutilized and cluttered with mail. Fortunately, she never wavered and welcomed me back without a hitch. Now she helps me turn out dish after dish lauding my successes and keeping my failures to herself. I wish I could take her to the beach for the weekend.

So with the economy in mind I thought to myself, “What affordable meals are out there that guests would think you pulled out all the stops for?” What I came up with rocked the evening. Thinly sliced potatoes prepared in a unique and tasty way, topped with a simple arugula salad with lemon and olive oil and finally a marinated then charcoal fired skirt steak cut into perfect strips. You could serve this to 6 guests and spend maybe 25 bucks. That seems like a recession proof meal to me.

I arranged the potatoes into circles on the bottom of a pan, seasoned, added a touch of garlic and olive oil and topped with a few small dollops of bacon fat (don’t throw your bacon drippings away people!). If you plan on living longer that I do, you can certainly omit the bacon fat I guess. Into a hot oven for about 12 minutes and what comes out has a crisp outer edge, like a well seasoned chip, and a soft buttery center. For the salad, I drizzled just a touch of lemon and olive oil on the arugula and seasoned with a touch of salt and pepper and that’s it. No fuss. Peppery Arugula with the acidic bite of the lemon gave a nice balance to the very mild and delicate flavor of the potato.

The steak marinated in an Asian bath of soy, sesame oil and honey for a couple of hours then met its fate on a hot grill. Adequately seared and subsequently rested, I cut this into strips and served it atop the arugula and potatoes. The juices of the steak were so perfectly preserved in the searing process that you’d have thought I dipped the strips in butter before plating. Rich and tasty, there was no hint of the toughness that could be found in an undermarinated piece of skirt steak. While I used a grill outdoors, pan searing would also make a nice steak.

Seriously, your friends will think you spent far more on this meal than you did.

Grilled Asian Skirt Steak with Arugula Salad and Garlic Potato Rounds

For the steak

1 cup soy sauce
2 tbsp honey
2 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp crushed red pepper
2 lbs skirt steak

Place ALL ingredients in a plastic zip bag and refrigerate for 2-3 hours. Allow 30 minutes at room temperature before grilling. Sear meat on a hot grill for about 3-4 minutes per side (depending on thickness of the meat) for medium rare. Remove and let rest for 10-15 minutes before slicing. Slice meat on a bias against the grain just before serving.

For the potatoes

2-3 Yukon gold potatoes, thinly sliced
2-3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil divided
1-2 tbsp bacon fat at room temperature or lard (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste

To thinly slice, I use a mandolin.


On a baking sheet* arrange the potatoes into a circle overlapping the edges.


Make 6-8 of these (one per person). Season with the salt and pepper and arrange a few thin slices of garlic onto the potatoes. Drizzle with a bit of the olive oil.


Arrange another circle of potatoes atop 1st layer. Place a few of the dollops of bacon fat or lard atop.


Place in a 375 degree oven for 12-13 minutes or until edges become golden brown.


*In my photos I use an oven proof skillet but you’ll be making enough to serve 6-8 so I suggest a baking sheet and make all at once.

For the Salad

2-3 cups arugula
Juice of ½ lemon
1 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Gently toss all ingredients together.

To serve, place one of the potato rounds on the bottom of each plate, top with about 1/3 cup of the arugula salad then arrange the sliced meat on the salad.

Serves 6-8

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Parmesan Soup with Green Onion and Parsley Dumplings


Oh my. I had a bit of an accident this morning. Nothing too serious, thank goodness. I was day dreaming and it just happened. You see, I thought about making biscuits and an hour later, I had something totally different; Parmesan Soup with Green Onion and Parsley Dumplings to be exact. My kitchen accidents rarely make it to the written word. Mostly they end in the pull out waste basket built into the counter. Dead men tell no tails I always say. This time, though, something wonderful happened and if you’ll indulge me, I’ll share it with you.

On my usual morning pantry inspection, I noticed a box of Bisquick in there. You know Bisquick, right? Bisquick is basically flour with the leavening agent already in so making pancakes and biscuits are simpler.

Biscuits sounded good. The side of the box gave the amounts of milk to add to make “biscuits or dumplings”. Dumplings? Oh!!! I haven’t made dumplings in like forever and I love good dumplings. Dumplings it is. It seems that ups the stakes a bit because now I need a brothy medium of sorts to cook the dumplings in. Well, I have some chicken stock. Good enough. Now here’s the cool part. In the back of the fridge I saw the remnants of what used to be a monster chunk of Parmesan Cheese that came from Costco. Have you ever seen the size of the Parmesan-Reggiano offerings from Costco? They are huge and I bet I had a 10 oz chunk of rind left. That’s the part that, while edible, is really too hard for anything and usually gets tossed out. I’d heard that they were good for soups so I thought this might add a hint of flavor. What I was completely unaware of was that this was to be the star of this dish and I cannot wait to make more. You will love this recipe, I think.

Instead of plain drop biscuits, I added lots of fresh green onions and parsley to the dough. Now I had lovely green lemony and oniony flavors dispersed throughout the biscuit and I was sure these would be good. You will see in the recipe that I used just a few things in the broth because that’s what I had, but visions of thinly sliced mushrooms or small potato cubes sounds quite special too.

In the end, what I ended up with was a super creamy broth that held tender bites of savory dumpling. That depth of flavor and the complexity of the buttery Parmesan-Reggiano was a welcome byproduct and not even close to my original vision of this recipe. Not only would I order this in a restaurant, but I would recommend my friends try it when they go. The dumplings were perfect with their hints of green and bright fresh flavors of onion and parsley. It was like eating Springtime against a nutty, buttery Parmesan canvas. You really should make this or your own variation.

Parmesan Soup with Green Onion and Parsley Dumplings

For the Dumpling dough, you can follow the directions on the side of a box of Bisquick to make about 12 dumplings. Add about 3 green onions, finely diced, to the dough as well as about ¼ cup chopped parsley. Mix well. Roll into balls. They should be about 2/3 the size of a golf ball.

For the soup

8 cups chicken stock
1 large onion, thinly sliced
3 carrots, diced
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
10 oz (or so) Parmesan-Reggiano rind (using shredded or grated will make the soup “stringy”)
½ cup chopped Italian Parsley plus some extra for garnish
12 or so dumplings

Add all ingredients except dumplings to a pot and bring to a simmer. Salt and Pepper to taste. Cook about 15 minutes to blend flavors and soften carrots and onions.
Add dumplings one at a time and ensure that there are at least 2-3 inches between dumplings because they will expand. Cook until dumplings are cooked through (about 10 minutes). Soup will thicken slightly. Using a large slotted spoon or “Spider”, remove the remnants of the Parmesan-Reggiano rind and discard.
Ladle into soup bowls and garnish with additional Parsley.

8-12 servings

Saturday, February 7, 2009

The Thirsty Marlin

Hey folks… Here are a few pics from dinner at Thirsty Marlin in Palm Harbor this week. It was wonderful. The full article will be up in the Creative Loafing website. You can check out it out here.
Notice the Purple cabbage and carrots on the plates that look like confetti. Great presentations.


Wonderful Ahi tuna appetizer. That red sauce around the edge is HOT but good.



Lisa's Thai Chicken wrap. WINNER!!!!



My Bacon Wrapped Scallops. A little salty and perhaps unremarkable but I can't say they weren't good.



Huge Oysters



Grouper Atlantis. Grouper topped with shrimp and Hollandaise. I thought this was the star of dinner for sure.