A little eggs story then smoked soft boiled eggs with caviar

On a business trip to the Netherlands a few years ago, a colleague and I were having lunch in a small bistro on the outskirts of a northern town called Alkmaar. It was directly beneath the town’s historic and still functioning windmill. Damon was what I would call a non-eclectic eater at best. It has always bothered me to see folks who pick through their food with a fork and knife –inspecting every crumb and bit for that hint of some unappealing vermin that the chef snuck in during the cooking process. This is far different from the inspection of the gustatory enthusiast who often deconstructs his meal while lauding each component for its creative use. The difference can be seen in the face of the inspector. A scowl or grimace on the former and a look of reverence on the latter. Damon had that scowl for 2 solid weeks (except for our adventures into the red light district of Amsterdam which should be left for a completely different blog).

In the smaller towns of the Netherlands, English is scarce making reading menus difficult. Sometimes you just had to take your best guess and Damon was trying his best to survive this horrid dining experience. On this day, we recognized the word “Hamburger” and Damon felt safe ordering this. I feel enlightened knowing the word has Dutch origins. I was prepared for the disaster to come when the waitress struggled to convey through a combination of frustrated hand gestures, guttural utterances and less-than-adequate interpreter help from the neighboring table that bread was an option. If bread was not standard for a Dutch hamburger, there was going to be an unappealing twist to this story for Damon. With a bright smile, the lovely barkeep returned with our plates and set before Damon two hamburger patties that I’m guessing were boiled. To the side was a large piece of the optional crusty bread atop a fresh cut slice of tomato and a few lettuce leaves. The coup-de-gras, though were the two poached eggs nestled atop the beef –yolks pre-broken and running lazily through the valleys of the meat. After a lunch of bread and butter, tomato and lettuce, Damon rose from the table with that scowl fixed and I swore –just like mom used to warn us about childhood eye-crossing –this was permanent.

Eggs. C’mon. The first thing most of us learn to cook as kids are scrambled eggs, right? There’s something primal and comforting about cracking eggs. But I must admit, that first guy who saw that white orb squirt out of a chicken’s ass and decided, “Wow, I should eat that!” well –he’s my hero; an epicurean visionary of unrivaled proportion. Or maybe he was just that hungry. Either way, eggs are enjoyed on every corner of the inhabited world and for great reason. They can be raw, boiled, fried, baked, stuffed, simmered or steamed. They can be the star of your meal or be a subtle perfect ingredient. In the September issue of Bon Appétit, a particular egg dish caught my eye. Told in unique and captivating comic book style is the story of an egg appetizer served at Momofuku Ko in New York City. Chef David Chang has been toying with this dish for some time until arriving at his current sensation. He perfectly soft boils an egg for a very specified length of time (5 minutes, 10 seconds). It then goes into a ice bath to stop the cooking process. Once cool enough to handle, the egg is gently pealed taking extra care not to split the white apart. The first bit of creative magic that sets this apart from any pedestrian egg dish is that the peeled egg is now returned to a water bath infused with a touch of liquid smoke. An overnight stay in the refrigerator yields a smoked, soft boiled egg. Already sounding perfect to me, the egg is re-warmed (4 minutes in a hot water bath) and served split –its silky warm ribbons of yellow oozing out like a perfect sunset over the beach. Ah, but wait, this is where it really gets good. A bit of caviar is then gently placed at the split in the egg giving the impression that these briny, black bits of oceanic perfection followed the yolk onto the plate. I had to try this. There was more to the dish than just the egg. He serves this atop on onion soubise (slow braised onions) next to a few homemade chips and some greens. For me though, it was the egg that moved me.

Within hours of reading this article, I was at it. Before wasting my time and money at the store for liquid smoke and caviar, I had to see if I could make a soft boiled egg at all. It’s a good thing I started with 3 because only one egg ended up worthy. It takes some practice removing the shell from that silly thing without pulling the while apart and ruining the yolk. I found the tricky part to be at the poles of the egg while the equator seemed to go fairly smooth. Now to the store. Since I live in the burbs, so to speak, I wasn’t willing to travel the distance required to find a high quality caviar so I settled on what was readily available at the grocery store. I imagine that might appall any caviar aficionados out there but I don’t know any. There was a black lumpfish caviar that was $14 for a tiny jar so I chose that. It certainly looked regal enough although my next rendition will be with the good stuff.

I got home, followed the recipe with my improvised ingredients and ended up with a treat of epic proportion. This tasted like something you’d pay a fortune for in a restaurant and I can only imagine how wonderful it would be with the accompanying onions at Momofuku Ko. Certainly, my rendition may be a bit more crude than the celebrated chef’s version but I was quite pleased with my more pedestrian version and I can’t wait to make this again.

Mac and Cheese with Pork Jowl Bacon and Roasted Poblano Pepper

This post is really about Mac and Cheese but first I have to share a recent discovery about one of the ingredients that I just fell in love with. If you watch The Food Network even a little bit, you’ve heard talk about pork fat and how delicious it can make almost anything. I have found this to be quite true. Now I know it’s not horribly good for you but a little goes a long way. About a year ago, I began reserving my bacon drippings and keeping them in the refrigerator in a small plastic container. I’ll go to this frequently instead of butter and I use about half a teaspoon as the base for many dishes that may begin with, say, onions and garlic. It’s really awesome.

Some weeks ago I was looking through the section at my grocery store reserved for meats that most folks rarely cook with. Things like pig’s feet and beef heart which are placed at the far end of the meat cooler. I never see anyone perusing the stuff. Tucked behind a bit of intestine, I noticed a package of pork jowl bacon. I wasn’t really sure what that was but it looked like bacon. Into the shopping cart it went. It came in a big slab that I had to cut myself.


Its first use in my house was in some collard greens that I cooked in a pretty traditional southern style. Wow was that flavorful. Unsmoked and a bit less salty than regular bacon, this had a pure taste. It was unmistakably and exquisitely pork. I have since used it in several dishes where I thought bacon was called for. I must admit, I like it better.

Now on to the Mac and Cheese. While out of the box Mac and Cheese is a popular American tradition in most households, it could not be further from its home made cousin both in flavor and ease of preparation. From the box to the plate is about 10 minutes from the store-bought variety and everything can be done right from the same pot. While I don’t find this horribly tasty, it’ll do in a pinch. Homemade Mac and Cheese, though, is just heaven. A sea of bubbling cheese with crunchy brown bits of breadcrumbs nestled about is enough to put anyone in a good mood. Unfortunately though, you do have to work for it a bit. I would call the home made variety an intermediate dish. Not completely simple to prepare and a bit time consuming, I messed quite a few attempts up before stumbling upon the correct concoction. The recipe I offer here is my most recent and it took about 2 hrs and required 3 pans and a few kitchen gadgets. (I cheated and used a food processor attachment instead of a box grater for the cheese.) Every bite, though, was worth the effort. From scratch Mac and Cheese just tastes like someone loves you. Silky, creamy, cheesy and packed with such succulent decadence, I can’t contemplate a more heartwarming dish.

Here are a couple of tips. You can use the amounts that I give you below but they are an estimate of what I made. The real key to the cheese sauce isn’t so much the type of cheese but the consistency when added to the macaroni before baking. It should be a bit more watery that you might think because much of the liquid gets absorbed by the noodles in the oven. If it’s too thick from the start, your cheese will end up kinda gloppy in the final dish. I’ve done this before and while the taste is still wonderful, the texture is a bit off putting. For the macaroni, you want a version that acts as a vessel to hold the cheese to it. I used shells because they are these little cups with ridges and it worked perfectly. Macaroni has the hollow center that does a nice job and is much more traditional. Rigatoni would be great too. As far as the cheese goes, the sky’s the limit. Lisa often complains that I have so many different cheeses that they have their own dedicated spot in the fridge. That’s true, they do. In this dish I used 4: Monterey Jack, cheddar, smoked provolone (over the top good) and Swiss.

Why did I choose these? Because I had them and I thought they’d go well together. I was right but it was just a guess. Another tip is to add some new flavors to the dish. Just the cheesy version stands up all by itself but you can be as creative as you like. I used the aforementioned bacon and some roasted Poblano peppers. What I ended up with was a scrumptious meal that had small crunchy bacon-y bits (because I rendered the pork jowl bacon first) and the sweet heat of the roasted Poblanos. Shrimp or Lobster would be good. Maybe some diced tomato would too. Since most of my recipes are pretty off the cuff, your own creative style would suit this just fine. Here is my version and it was yummy.

Macaroni and Cheese with pork jowl bacon and roasted Poblano peppers

2-3 large Poblano peppers
½ cup of pork jowl bacon, cubed into ¼ inch pieces (regular bacon would be just fine too)
1 lb pasta shells or elbow macaroni
½ stick (4 tbsp) butter
3 cups half and half
½ cup cheddar cheese, grated
½ cup Monterey Jack cheese, grated
½ cup smoked provolone, grated
½ cup Swiss cheese, grated
1/3 cup bread crumbs (I make my own in a food processor with a bit of garlic powder and salt but Panko crumbs would be good too. Regular store bought would be OK but that’s always a very last resort, in my opinion)

Place the peppers in a 450 degree oven and cook until all of the skin is dark brown or black, about 30 minutes. Remove and place in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap so the peppers can steam a bit. Allow to rest at least 30 minutes to cool. Take each pepper and remove the brown/black skin so that the green flesh is what you have left. Discard the seeds and rinse the pepper flesh clean then dry with paper towel. Dice peppers finely and set aside for later.

Place the cubed bacon in a skillet that is preheated to medium low. You want to avoid too much sizzle because we want these to render over 10-15 minutes and not cook like traditional bacon bits. If you are using regular bacon, you want it just a bit underdone. When done, move to a plate lined with a paper towel to drain the excess fat.

In a large pot of salted boiling water, add your shells. Turn heat down and cook for about 7 minutes until shells are al dente. Drain and set aside.

In a large saucepan, melt the butter and add the half and half. Bring to just a scald and add the cheese. Stir until all the cheese is melted. I use a whisk to determine the right consistency. If the sauce is right, it will fall away from the whisk as it is lifted out. Think tomato soup thick: a bit liquidy. If too thick, add a bit more half and half.

In a casserole dish, combine the bacon, Poblanos, shells and cheese sauce. Depending on the size of your casserole, you may or may not use all of your cheese sauce. Place in a 350 degree oven and cook for 30-45 minutes. Remove and sprinkle bread crumbs over the top and cook an additional 10 minutes.

Serves 8-10

Grilled Chicken, Sweet Corn and Barley Soup from Leftovers

Forgive me but I’m going to take some liberty in forming an opinion of you. You cook. You probably have a passion for it at times. You live a busy life. You have a fridge full of leftovers. If I am correct, let’s chat. It breaks my heart to go into the fridge and throw out something that just 2 nights ago was absolute heaven to eat. Unfortunately though, the flavors are never the same reheated or microwaved. I toss plenty. I hate it. Trying to create new recipes from those leftovers can be a challenge, to be sure, but there are a couple of simple tricks. One of my favorites is soup. Those victim meats that have completely lost their once brimming succulence can be revived with a simple slow simmer in a luscious broth. The Tupperware that contains 2 tablespoons of veggies because you just couldn’t bear to throw them away can also be put to use. Even though I’ll share a specific recipe with you below, that’s not what’s important here. It’s about using what you have, conserving on your grocery bill, and avoiding the lost-in-the-back-of-the-fridge syndrome. You certainly don’t want you refrigerator to double as a Petri dish.

It is not uncommon for me to make 2 completely different dishes; one for Lisa and one for me. I like experimenting with food and she is much less adventurous. So the other day, I had a few different items on the grill. At the end of dinner, I had a mountain of leftovers including 3 ears of grilled corn and several citrus marinated, grilled chicken breasts. These are prime items to morph into a fuzzy blue cocoon in a matter of weeks. Don’t lie. It’s happened to you too. Fast forward a couple of days and I’m doing my usual what-am-I gonna-make-next-? ice box inspection. I see these things and a few others and the lights go off. It’s time for a soup. This would be perfect for the rubbery raw carrots from last week and the last onion in the bag. Oh, and I have some homemade chicken and veggie broth in the freezer that should be good. A quick peek in the pantry produces some pearl barley. Great in soup. This plan is coming together nicely. I dice up the veggies and the chicken, thaw my broth, cut the corn from the cob and that’s pretty much it. Once combined and seasoned, I add a bit of barley and it’s simmer time. An hour later, I have a luscious, fresh tasting wonderful soup that even Lisa scarfed down. I topped it with some fresh basil from the garden, grated Parmesan cheese (because shoes taste good with Parmesan cheese) and a drizzle of olive oil. The basil helped enhance the fresh flavor from the very beginning and you’d never tell that one more day and the carrots might have been able to leave the fridge under their own power.

For me, this was leftover management at its finest. I still often fail and I’m constantly tossing things pretty much daily. In this case though, I was able to conserve just a bit and not only did it feed my family at home, I sent quite a bit over to my father. He loves my leftovers anyway. So if you too have some items wasting space in your fridge and they haven’t begun their smelly morphing phase, one idea would be a soup. Give it a shot. See what happens or try something completely different. Just think before you toss.

Grilled Chicken, Sweet Corn and Barley Soup

4 grilled chicken breasts, cubed into bite size pieces
10 cups chicken or vegetable broth (or a combo of both)
1 onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
½ cup pearl barley
3 ears of sweet corn, grilled or roasted then cut from the cob (yes, you could certainly use a frozen)
Fresh basil for garnish
Parmesan cheese for grating atop
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

In a large pot, add the broth, chicken, onion, and carrots. Bring to a slight boil and add the barley. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer for 1 hour. Serve into individual bowls and top with a bit of basil, Parmesan and a slight drizzle of olive oil.

Serves 8

Rum and OJ infused Skirt Steak with Pineapple and Serrano Salsa -Ya Mon!!!

I love a challenge. I think most of us do. I especially like them when they are related to food. That’s why I had so much fun with this one. I was recently asked to cater a party for about 100 people. OK, I can handle that. It’s in Canada. I can handle that too. The theme is Caribbean. So far so good. The idea of fresh, clean island flavors begin swirling in my mind: citrus, seafood, sweet, spicy. Of course there has to be a twist. I was told that the folks hosting the party and the guest of honor do not like cilantro. This is a constraint that is difficult to overcome. When I think of the Caribbean, I think of rum drinks and foods with heavy doses of cilantro. Now if you enjoy a good salsa, it almost always has cilantro. The flavor is unmistakably bright and unique and screams of steel drum bands and sand in your toes. Leaving it out seems wrong on many levels to me, but hey, it’s not my party. Also, she wanted everything to be finger foods. No fussing with forks and sit down place settings; just small plates that guests could walk around and mingle with was the mandate. It didn’t take me long to draw up a rudimentary plan. The proteins were easy enough. A shrimp dish, a scallop dish, chicken, vegetarian, beef. I could use skewers, lettuce cups and bread as the vessels for these. As I thought of lime and rum and seafood, I was feeling a bit better. Things were coming together. Still, the absence of cilantro seemed problematic. I made a trip to the grocery store for a few ingredients to see what I could come up with. 8 courses plus a dessert later and I was all set. 1000 individual pieces. I’m pretty sure this will be a hit but I won’t be able to report back until early September because the party is at the end of August.

In particular, I was especially proud of the skirt steak skewers. Marinated in rum and orange juice then grilled, they’ll be served in a Bibb lettuce cup with a pineapple Serrano salsa. I decided to make a version of this for Lisa. She’s by far the pickiest adult eater I know. Difficult to take out to most restaurants much less cook for, she is a terrific critic. When she likes something I make, I am beyond thrilled. I wasn’t holding my breath on this one but I felt she might enjoy it. I just thought the flavors were consistent with what she likes. First I made the salsa. For me the key to salsas (or relishes, if you prefer that term) is flavor combinations and texture. While there is often a star in the condiment, no one flavor should be too overpowering. The tastes should marry and, in fact, be allowed some time in the refrigerator to meld. Getting the right texture comes from the size of the ingredients. A small dice is best. A good dose of lime juice and a splash of dark rum rounds out the salsa. I almost forgot about the cilantro.

With the pineapple concoction doing its magic in the fridge, it was time to turn my attention to the steak. Now skirt steak is a very interesting cut of beef. When deciding on which cut to use, I tried four different varieties. Sirloin, filet, strip and skirt all went into the marinade. After an overnight bath, my beef and I went to the grill. The sirloin dried out. It was beefy tasting but too little fat made it dry. The filet felt out of place because while it still had that beautiful buttery flavor, the salsa on it seemed distracting. Same with the NY strip. The skirt steak, though, was magnificent. Perfectly seared and exquisitely moist, the sweetness of the salsa contributed to humble nirvana. Skirt steak comes from the belly of the cow. It’s often considered a tougher cut of meat but I find it very easy to get around this by marinating it. Because of its texture, it’s the cut of choice for fajitas. Personally, I think it stands up beautifully on its own with very little effort and it’s well suited for the grill. Skirt steak also has just the perfect amount of fat to it. Not at all gristly but instead wonderfully moist and tender at medium rare, this should do well. Experimenting over. Let’s eat. I forewent the skewers and lettuce cups for Lisa’s home rendition. Instead I just removed the meat from the marinade and went straight to the grill. A few minutes on each side over the hot coals and I had a perfect medium rare steak.

After an appropriate resting time of about 10 minutes, I sliced it (against the grain completely eliminates toughness) and plated it topping it with the pineapple salsa. On the side I put some potato rounds roasted with garlic and bacon drippings and a salad. The verdict? Lisa ate every bite. She loved it. The heat of the Serrano chilies with the sweetness of the pineapple that topped the citrus and rum infused beef was enough to transport me to a far off island where Jimmy Buffet was holding a personal concert for me. The only thing missing was a coconut with a straw hanging out of it.

I’m really excited about sharing this with you because, honestly, this is one of the best original recipes I’ve created in a while. Even though the marinade and salsa require some forethought, the entire kitchen time is less than 30 minutes, maybe 40 if you count clean up. Give this a try and feel free to report back any twists of your own.

Island skirt steak with pineapple and Serrano chili salsa

Marinade
1 cup orange juice
1 cup Meyer’s (or other dark) rum
2 tsp grated ginger
3 cloves garlic, chopped or grated
Salt and pepper to taste

2 lb skirt steak

Salsa
1 cup diced fresh pineapple, ¼ inch cubes
½ cup diced red bell pepper
1 Serrano chili, very thinly sliced
2 large green onions, very thinly sliced
Juice of 2 limes
Dash Orange juice
Dash of Meyer’s (or other dark) rum
Salt and pepper to taste

Lay the skirt steak on a cutting board and pierce throughout meat with a fork. This allows the marinade deeper penetration. Combine all of the marinade ingredients and place in a reseal able plastic bag along with the steak. Take as much air out of the bag as possible and place in the refrigerator for 4 to 8 hours.

For the salsa, combine all of the ingredients and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.

Grill the steak over high grill heat (depending on your grill) for 4-6 minutes per side for medium rare. Remove from grill and let rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Slice the meat against the grain and plate topping with the pineapple salsa.
Serves 4

As always, you can email me at louistjr@gmail.com or find me on Facebook. Screen name: louislovesfood.

Fun Cooking at Diner 437

I asked for it. I guess I’d been asking for it all along. I’ve accomplished so many food milestones in my life that this was something I needed to do. So I just laced up my boots and crawled into the trenches. It was hot in there. I was sweating. I was weary. My back ached. My 48 hour old tattoo was stinging. Yet, when the day ended, I raised a cocktail with folks who I admire for their precision, skill and dedication. I’m speaking of my first experience in a restaurant kitchen. If you’re like me, you have taken for granted what it takes to put out consistently good food, plate after plate, with such attention to detail. I was about to learn. Trial by fire. It all started a few weeks ago after a lunch trip to Diner 437 in St. Petersburg. I wrote about that experience a few posts ago. There I met a dynamic and colorful chef named Domenica Macchia. We struck up a conversation and I think we’re now officially friends. She made some great food, candidly told her story and ultimately invited me back to cook with her behind the counter. Now that was an invitation I had to accept.

I arrived at 4 PM for the dinner service on a Saturday night. Things were just getting set up. Domenica met me with a hug and we toured the operation. Prep work in the back. Walk in cooler. Specials. The line. Stoves. Oven. The menu. How orders come in. Staff introductions. What plate to use for what dish. So much to process. Luckily, there was no time to get overwhelmed with information because the first few orders trickled in soon after. Gorgonzola bread was up first. On the stove a bit of sherry, garlic, shallot, parsley, parmesan and cream are simmered. A handful of gorgonzola is added to the pan and the sauce is reduced till thick. Meanwhile, some toast points go into the oven. The bread is plated and the gorgonzola sauce is poured over the top. Cooking time for this fan favorite is about 3 minutes from beginning to end. It’s all about speed and flow.

Marinated shirt steak with warm spinach and mashed potatoes

Domenica’s kitchen is small. There’s just enough room in the narrow space for one person to squeeze past another. “Behind you”, is heard over and over and you better listen or you will get burned. Literally. There needs to coordination for things to work right. Normally there are three people there and they each have a station to manage. Domenica works the stove and grill, while Matt assembles sandwiches and does some sides and Christina does the salads. There are some cross responsibilities, but that’s the general flow. Domenica is most certainly in command of this ship. While it’s all smiles and small talk initially, those tickets start printing with the orders and things snap into place pretty quickly. Domenica immediately begins calling out the items for Matt and Christina while attending her grill. I stand in anticipation for Domenica’s guidance which comes quickly, decisively and briefly. She doesn’t give me much time. She shows me once and that’s it. Do or die. Meanwhile, I’m sure I’m sharing space that Matt normally occupies and I can’t help feel that he already hates me. Another gorgonzola bread order comes in and I think I can now handle it. My first dish for a customer. I’m thrilled. I’m feeding someone and they are paying for it.
“Too much gorgonzola,” says Domenica. “Next time use less.”
Well she told me use a handful so I did. She pointed out that my hands were larger than hers. Fair enough.

That was not my first scolding of the night but I learned 4 or 5 of the menu items pretty quickly and as the pace picked up, Domenica had me working these pretty consistently. In no time I was making shaved filet mignon and passing it off to Matt for the sandwich with garlic dressing (unbelievably good). The caramelized bananas were simple enough. Add a bit of butter and brown sugar to a pan with some dark rum and sliced bananas. I felt like a real chef as the blue flame from the dark rum rose while I flipped the bananas like they do on TV. I’m ready for Iron Chef.

“C’mon, we gotta be able to do two things at once in here!” Domenica shouts.
I tumbled back to Earth with a sweaty thud as I put some butter, lemon juice and oil in a pan to begin some spinach. Shallots and garlic in next.
“Take some of that garlic out. I don’t want a big garlic bite in my spinach.”
I comply. In goes the spinach and the flame goes off. Her recipe has the spinach just tossed in the hot butter/oil to slightly wilt and warm through. It is a guest favorite.

And on and on it went for my 6 hour shift. It was hectic at times, calm a few others. As the tickets lined up, Domenica assigned each duty with careful attention to timing the orders so that hot meals were served to each table at the right time. This is a learned skill, I’m sure, but she was flawless. From the back room, clean dishes are supplied in a steady stream as are menu items as they are depleted. I felt a touch uncomfortable walking into the back, handing a stranger an empty bin and asking him to refill it or handing the dishwasher a bowl and telling him to please wash it and bring it out. Who am I to be barking orders at these hard working folks? But that’s the way it’s done.
Garlic Parmesan wings

Then suddenly, just as I feel my back is going to snap in two, it’s over. The last order is out and we’re finished. I feel like I just won the Super Bowl. “That was awesome!” I shouted in my head but uttered with more restraint. I wanted to bring my kid on the field. I wanted the streamers to fly. I was looking for the camera so I could face it and say, “We’re going to Disney World!” Then I looked around and saw that no one really cared. There was degreasing to do and they were still working. I popped the top from the beer I had been offered earlier and watched. Not that I’m above helping clean but my back was really about finished. Clean up was only about 30 minutes. Afterwards, Domenica and I went out to toss a few back with her friends at a local watering hole. If I portrayed her as a hard ass, let me assure you she is anything but. While she knows how to command a kitchen flow during a busy dinner crowd, she is affable, outgoing and fun to be with. Her friends were a joy to be around too.

It wasn’t long before I was headed home to pass out. 1:30 AM is not a time of day I am generally familiar with but I had such a tremendous evening. I learned more this night than I have in a while. I can definitely check this off my “bucket list”. What makes me feel better is that Domenica invited me back. I’m ready.

Mise en Place -Tampa

In my time writing this blog, I’ve tried to write about meals that we all could enjoy. Mostly, I’ve stuck to recipes with ingredients that can easily be bought at any old grocery store and eateries where the whole family can gather for a delicious and reasonable meal. I am ever irritated when I read recipes in Bon Appétit or Gourmet and at the bottom (in fine italic print) there is a statement about an ingredient that says something like “Hikko whale eggs can be bought at some Asian markets or ordered from http://superf**ckingexpensivehikkowhaleggsonline.com” (OK, so there is no Hikko whale and if there was, it would not lay eggs –but you get my point). In numerous recent posts though, I’ve written about some high end restaurants in Washington DC, Tampa, New Orleans and Philadelphia that are really not for the every day dinner experience. They are haughty, expensive and really special fine dining meals. I’m not sure the everyday food blog reader gets a kick out of hearing how good the rabbit roulades were or how buttery the 1 pound filet of beef was. It doesn’t take a creative mind to write about food so decadent that the words flow easily. Still, I must be fair. If I happen to go to an outstanding restaurant either on business or personally, I feel very compelled to share that experience. Therefore, if you tire of hearing about unbelievably unusual and higher priced outings, please read no further. I promise to return to normalcy and make a great burger or something equally as enjoyable in the coming weeks but today I must speak about Mise en Place in Tampa.

Back in 1986, a couple of Motor City transplants named Maryann Frenec and Marty Blitz started a small catering business in Tampa. Marty had worked his way up through the culinary community in other cities and it was time to set out with his own venture. What started as a little business has blossomed into one of the most successful and stalwart restaurant operations in Tampa Bay. As the proprietors of multiple restaurants and gathering numerous local and national accolades along the way, their reputation in Tampa is second to none. Taylor Eason, wine editor for Creative Loafing, commented to me recently that Maryann is “The food god of Tampa Bay.” The menu is creative, playful and quite adventurous. The food is so perfectly prepared that as each bite passes my palate, I can’t think of a way to improve anything. Brittany, my daughter, and I arrived early on an absolutely miserable Wednesday afternoon. It had been raining for days. The streets were flooded and I was sure there would be no one dining but us. While it was a bit slow at 6:30, I was surprised to see how many people were gathered in the bar area and by the time I left there were many others enjoying meals at the tables around the restaurant. That is true testament to any establishment.

Our server went over the menu in detail and answered all our questions. He made some recommendations and we set out to order. My first course was Pacu ribs with a plum barbeque sauce (Photo at the top). This was one of the most creative dishes I have ever had and I don’t say that lightly. Pacu is a large South American fresh water fish that can grow up to 60 lbs. I’ve heard of it but never eaten it before and I’ve certainly never heard of anyone using the ribs of a fish as a menu item. I had to try it. The preparation was Asian. Lightly battered and drizzled with the plum sauce, I was immediately reminded of flavors that I have only experienced in China. The Pacu was beyond exquisite and I could have had several plates of this and called it a night. It was suggested by Taylor, who I mentioned above, that we try the wild mushroom salad as a second course. Again superb, the Earthy natural flavors of the mushrooms were married with a vinaigrette. How simple. How elegant. How delicious.

My entrée was a pecan and mustard crusted rack of lamb served atop tarragon and cheddar grits. Ordering rare lamb takes a brave soul because it is so hard to make lamb perfectly rare. While medium rare is the most common way to enjoy this meat, a rare order is often cold and just raw. This, however, was just right. Straddling that line between slightly cool to just warm, the inner chops were exactly what I was hoping for. The twist on the grits was an unexpected and pleasant experience. Leave it to a southern chef to take a plain and boring staple and do something extraordinary with it. You can bet I will try to create something like this in my own kitchen.

Brittany ordered the Scottish Salmon that came over some grilled vegetables (eggplant, roasted pepper, squash) with a cardamom and saffron vinaigrette. Most notably, pairing a bite of salmon with the grilled eggplant in the vegetables was a bit of heaven that is difficult to describe. I can’t think of an eggplant or salmon dish that I haven’t enjoyed but together they rocked.

As a blogger it is my prerogative to write about experiences that have already been overwritten. Mise en Place is not a secret to the South Tampa dinner crowd but it bears mentioning that if you are passing through the area to attend any downtown event, a dinner here could only put an exclamation point on any special evening. With a view of the signature minarets of the University of Tampa directly across the street, your experience will be memorable. Bon Appétit.

Mise en Place is located at 442 West Kennedy Blvd in Downtown.

As always, you can find me on facebook at Louislovesfood@facebook.com or drop me a line at louistjr@gmail.com.

Outback Effect and Fleming's Steakhouse

I don’t recall exactly when it happened but it couldn’t have been that long ago. Do you remember when the words “chain restaurant” brought visions of 8 page menu’s full of flavorless fare? I do. Rubbery ribs, the lowest cut of beef available they called steak, frozen veggies barely heated on the side; you know what I’m talking about, right? Sure those chains still exist. Someone eats there because they are all still thriving but I’d sooner stick a needle in my eye. But something has changed. And it’s good. I call it the Outback effect.

Some folks here in Tampa got together and opened an Australian Steakhouse called Outback back in the late 80’s. Not exactly a Mecca for dining, Tampa quickly embraced this place and it was the talk of the town. Comfortable atmosphere, good quality meats and friendly staff were a recipe for success. I’m not sure if it was the plan all along, but their expansion was explosive, to say the least. Not only was the food good but it turns out that it was reproducible on a large scale. Their American success story is impressive. They even have their own Bowl game now. Along the way they managed to partner (or gobble up) with some other successful ventures to form the more sterile sounding OSI Restaurant Partnership (LLC). Carrabbas, Bonefish, Roy’s and Fleming’s are all under the same corporate management. What makes the Outback effect so impressive to me it that the food is really outstanding. That statement goes against every fiber of my being, but it’s true. I no longer immediately run from a chain restaurant and every once in a while, I actually have to deal with a craving for something from “down under”.

I recently had dinner at Fleming’s Steakhouse in Tampa and it was quite noteworthy. If Outback is on the “family dining” end of the spectrum, Fleming’s is on the opposite “fine dining” end. My colleague, Bruce, has had many a business dinner here and he knows the place well. Walking in, he is immediately greeted by many staff members including the Manager, Jorge, and the Operating Partner, Keith. Both spend time chatting with us and Keith offered me a tour. I was quite impressed with the restaurant. It is obvious they are creating an experience and not just a place to eat. Fleming’s is a bit refined. Impressive art, dark wood walls and private dining rooms gives this place an old style meeting place feel where high powered business deals are brokered. While I am most comfortable in shorts and flip flops, I was glad to be wearing a tie. Armed with my Maker’s Mark on the rocks, I began perusing the menu. My first impression was “safe”. The menu varies little from the standard steakhouse fare. All of the typical cuts with other poultry, pork or seafood options. Still, I could tell I was in for a treat because what a place like this does is trade variety for quality, meaning I guessed the food is over the top. I was completely correct but let me back up to the menu for a moment. I did notice the appetizers and side dishes had some really interesting choices. They served a tenderloin carpaccio as a starter. That gets an A+ in my book and I will have to try the sweet chili calamari on my next visit. The side dishes included sautéed sweet corn with shallots and chives and mashed potatoes made with blue cheese, parmesan-peppercorn or roasted garlic but I went for the mac and cheese with chipotle, cheddar and smoked Gouda. If I have ever had better mac and cheese, I can’t recall it. Creamy but with bits of toasted bread crumbs on top, this was smoky, cheesy and oh so decadent. Much like a goldfish, I think I could have eaten this until I exploded. It took all I had to ask the server to wrap it up to take home (it was next morning’s breakfast –heated in the oven with some more fresh breadcrumbs then broiled at the last minute to reproduce the previous evenings deliciousness).

As I sat trying to figure out my entrée, Bruce took the bull by the horns and told the server to bring us both a bone in filet, “the thickest you can find”, he said. Far be it from me to interject at this point. That sounded exquisite. This wasn’t even on the menu but I found out they occasionally carry it and this night we were in luck. The steak was 2 inches thick and the size of a medium ribeye. I can most certainly say, I have not had a cut of filet this large. The outer char was absolutely perfect with a browned sear that could grace the cover of any cooking periodical. Inside I found the beautiful red hew that I expect in a rare steak. The meat was succulent and buttery and each morsel eclipsed the one before. I cut small bites to overcome my desire to try to eat this like a Tyrannosaurus Rex.

Overwhelmed by the quantity of food I just consumed, I was taken aback at Bruce’s dessert order. With the Mac and Cheese, the Fred Flintstone sized piece of steak and the creamed corn (also with cheese in it), I was confident I was not taking another bite. Plus I felt that my blood vessels were already struggling to cope with what I had ingested. Then it came out. I don’t know what the title of this volcano of chocolate is but it was decadent and delicious. Cutting in to the cake, this chocolate lava pours out commanding your fork to dip into it. With the berries atop and the pistachio topped vanilla ice cream on the side, I think every stomach starts making a bit of room.

As our evening ebbed away, I sat at the bar sipping a port. Eventually it was time to head back home and reflect on this dinner. This was a spectacular meal like one I haven’t had in a while in Tampa. While I wouldn’t classify Fleming’s as an everyday eatery, it is worth an evening out. Be advised the menu is all ala carte. There are no sides unless you order them but they are certainly large enough sides for two. The food and service are spot on. They are running a promotion (I think nationally) where you can get get reduced price drinks and appetizers from a special bar menu before 7PM. I looked at that menu and it does offer a very affordable option to try some high quality preparations. So whether it’s a business dinner, a special evening out, a celebration or a reasonable bar menu you’re looking for, I would say Fleming’s should be on your radar. I’ll go back.