3 at Bats, 3 Home Runs -In the Big Apple

I love the city. I love everything about it. From the people to the museums to the endless miles of concrete, I adore it. Interestingly enough, I’ve never lived in the heart of a major city before. I’ve always lived in the “burbs”, and while this is a much more conducive place to raise a family, there will always be a part of me that wishes I’d had a little apartment at some point right smack in the center of things. This is in sharp contrast to the views of many of my friends who enjoy the wide open spaces and huge distances between homes. First of all, if you’re going to live in the country you need to be somewhat handy. At least everyone I know that lives in a rural setting is. I can’t fix anything. I can barely hang a picture straight. I do own a toolbox. In it are the various requisites I’ve collected over the years but every time I open the lid, Lisa is immediately concerned. And while it has cost me a bit more money over the years than most, I happily pick up the phone for even some of the simpler house projects. Fueling my urban passions are the great cities I’ve visited over the years. On the streets of Hong Kong I thought to myself, “I could live here”. But I also thought that in Miami, San Francisco, London and Washington DC. While every city holds its own unique identity, there is a palpable bond that is common amongst them and I guess that’s the draw for me. Oh yeah… then there’s the food.

I recently arrived in Manhattan on business and aside from the work tasks at hand, all I could think about was where we were going to dine. New York is sensory overload for foodies. It is what Rome is to Catholics, Las Vegas is to gamblers and Amsterdam is to party goers. A simple slice of pizza for lunch is better than any pizza you’ve ever tasted. A quick stop in a coffee shop for a bagel is spiritual. Yet for New Yorkers, it’s just another day. Well I was not about to take one single morsel for granted. My first choice for dinner was born as much out of convenience as it was out of culinary adventure. Unless you live under a rock, you probably know that this has been a pretty brutal winter for New York City and this week was no different. A foot of snow arrived during my visit but that was no deterrent for me. The good news is that New York has great food on every block so I knew I didn’t need to travel far. A quick conversation with the front desk at the hotel and I knew The Bridge Café was a must.

A few steps from my front door and just beneath the Brooklyn Bridge, this is the oldest continuous drinking establishment in NYC. The doors opened in 1794 in the previously dicey Seaport district. Credited with once being a brothel as well as a saloon, the early clientele had more sinister motives; but today this landmark is charming, cozy and above all else, warm. In the bustle that is Manhattan, this small room almost seems out of place. Only about twice the size of an average living room and décor preserved from a hundred years ago, The Bridge Café is in contrast to the modern dining experience one thinks of when thinking of New York City. To me it was more reminiscent of the seaside village cafés of the New England coastline. On the lower east side, there was something quaint. My appetizer was mussels in a ridiculously delicious spicy tomato and andouille sausage broth. This just begged to be sopped up with the warm house made bread that was served. Next came a perfect medium rare hanger steak. There were no frills to this; just a well made cut that I adored. A great first-night-in-the-city meal was in the books and there was more to come.

On the second night, we hit Katz’s Deli. If you told me you had one hour in Manhattan and needed to get something to eat, I’d suggest one of the Jewish Deli’s in the city. There are at least 5 famous ones that I can think of off the top of my head and Katz’s is my personal favorite. They take making corned beef and pastrami very seriously in these places and it pays off. Although table service is available, part of the quintessential deli experience is stepping up to the counter and watching you sandwich be made. Large slabs of beef are hand carved with a knife and portioned onto rye bread with spicy mustard. There is other delectable fare to be had as well. Famous for their salami and with the smell of the sausages on the grill, there are plenty of choices but for me the pastrami is the only way to go. I must offer word of caution. If you like pastrami and try this, you may never be able to eat pastrami outside of New York again.

This gigantic mass of juicy meat between 2 slices of bread is so perfect, so delicious that it’s sinful. I could have lunch at this deli every day for the rest of my life and be amazingly content.

I reserved the last night for the classic New York experience, dinner and a Broadway show. With close to twenty thousand restaurants to choose from in the city, I went back to my tried and true website, urbanspoon.com, to narrow the options. Once again I was not let down. From their top-ten list in the “Talk of the town” section, I made reservations at the up-and-comer, Osteria Morini. There are no less than 7 restaurants that Chef Michael White has his thumbprint on in and around New York. This latest venture in SoHo is remarkable. White pays homage to the style of the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna.

In a setting of imported block tables and wooden beams imported from an Italian farmhouse, White’s attention to detail is second only to his food. Cured meats and cheese appetizers are served on sturdy butcher blocks. House made pasta is silky and flawlessly cloaked in various sauces, butters and broths. Ravioli filled with truffled Mascarpone in brown butter with ribbons of Prosciutto is simple, elegant, decedent and genius. We started with 2 appetizers. First was 2 Prosciuttos. The traditional Prosciutto de Parma that is prized and coveted as one of the best meats to ever come out of Italy was served on one side of the wooden block. On the other side was Lardo, or white Prosciutto (yes just the fat). Set atop toasted rounds of bread, both were equally as delicious but the lardo in particular was like eating a surprisingly light pillow of butter with a hint of salty pork flavor. It was mesmerizing. Also we sampled grilled sardines over white beans with olive oil. I’ve had this dish before but this was on another level. These bear no resemblance to the salty pizza topping we’re familiar with. These fish are rich, briny and especially tasty. Next I chose small hand shaped tortellini of pork and beef in a duck liver cream sauce for my entrée.

Served on a small, elegantly painted farmhouse plate, the fresh pasta and smooth cream sauce were in harmony. I loved this dish for its unique, sophisticated essence. Finally desert. Zabaglione with cappuccino and a scoop of vanilla gelato again did not disappoint. This restaurant hit the mark on so many levels, it is almost indescribable. After sampling all of the aforementioned delectibles, one might be left with a feeling of over indulgence. Nothing could be further from the truth in this case. These portions are not “Americanized”. Smaller plates allow for more tasting options and always leave you wanting a bit more. That’s a much better feeling than gorging on a huge plate of pasta and needing to undo the top button of your pants to sit and enjoy the show. Noteworthy was that every pasta creation was under $20 and appetizers were less than $15. Not bad for New York.

Three delicious meals in the Big Apple down and I was ready to get back home. Wicked, the show we saw was also terrific and I have since bought tickets to take the family when it comes to Orlando in March. The best thing about New York is that my meals there are reproducible at restaurants all over the city. A bad restaurant in Gotham will not stand long. Whether you use word-of-mouth or the internet you will find food that suits you. The only error you can make is to never go there.

Lenny's in Clearwater, FL

OK, it’s time to talk about the home scene. After recently paying homage to pretentious meals in Phoenix for which my wallet was left much lighter, it’s refreshing to talk about a little breakfast joint around here that has been attracting quite a following for years. If there’s a better little place in Tampa Bay for breakfast than Lenny’s in Clearwater, I haven’t been there. In the shadow of Bright House Field, spring training home to the Philadelphia Phillies, Lenny’s will fill your belly with more than standard breakfast fare as long as you’re willing to stand in line for a table. Lenny’s vast menu is based on the Jewish delis that New York is famous for. Along with your standard bacon and eggs you’ll find fresh bagels with lox, knishes, cheese filled pastries, polish sausage along with other eastern European comfort food.

The Jewish Deli became a New York institution in the late 1800’s as waves of eastern European immigrants flooded in to New York harbor in an attempt to escape the volatile and dynamic political climates back home. Homesickness was combated by congregating in familiar surroundings and sharing common food. Never fancy or ornate, these establishments were as much a social distraction as they were restaurants. As time has passed, though, these restaurants have become some of the most coveted and visited restaurants New York City has to offer. Katz’s Deli, Stage Deli, Carnegie Deli, 2nd Ave Deli are just a few of the must try places the city has to offer. Sadly, outside of Gotham, there are few –and I mean few –truly great delis of this genre. Also sad is that Tampa Bay is no exception.

The good news is that Lenny’s does a pretty good job with the breakfast component. I used to frequent Lenny’s some years ago when I worked in the Clearwater area. Unfortunately, I just hadn’t been back there in quite some time. Mostly, it was the distance. There are at least 5 decent places to get breakfast closer than the 30 minute drive to Lenny’s and combined with the fact we only go out to breakfast once a month or so, my absence from this great little spot grew. For the past few weeks my 6 year old daughter, Olivia, has been attending a basketball camp on Saturday mornings in Clearwater so I decided to introduce her to Lenny’s and reacquaint myself.

I’d forgotten how long the wait is to get a table. The line at 10AM on Saturday mornings looks painful. If you’re willing to have counter service though, there’s pretty much no wait. So Olivia and I bellied up to the bar ready to eat. She’d been practicing her dribbling, passing and shooting skills for the past hour and had worked up a good little appetite. Me? Well, I’m always hungry –much like a goldfish. The menu is 3 substantial pages long full of specialty omelets, special egg dishes, various breakfast combos and, of course, the aforementioned deli breakfast fare. I ordered a special for the day –Lobster Benedict –while Olivia stuck with her tried and true pancakes. While sipping our coffee and chocolate milk, respectively, we caught the attention of a wandering minstrel of sorts. On Saturday mornings, a gentleman meanders from table to table making the most elaborate balloon sculptures that I’ve ever seen. At our counter spot he stopped and made Olivia a pretty cool looking dolphin.

He also performed a magic trick where he changed the length of three strands of rope and then changed them back. We liked him. It turns out, he is a professional entertainer and has performed at venues both big and small. He shared with me his vision for a new restaurant where guests are entertained in small groups before dinner in a similar fashion to Hibachi chefs at those Japanese joints like Benihana’s. Seems viable to me.

Shortly thereafter we were presented with our food. Knowing I wouldn’t finish, I also ordered a potato knish. Frankly, I hadn’t had one in a while and I just wanted a few bites. These pillowy potato pastries are perfectly savory and especially good with some spicy mustard. Mine was no exception. The benedict was also delicious. Rich hollandaise with sumptuous warm egg yolk over the sweet lobster meat was breakfast nirvana. Judging by the clean plate in front of Olivia, she enjoyed her breakfast as well.

Most neighborhoods have a good little breakfast spot but I think Lenny’s is a cut above. I suggest venturing out from your favorite place and give them a try. Personally, I have 6 more weeks of Saturday mornings to reacquaint myself before Olivia’s basketball commitment ends. I plan on taking full advantage of both that one on one time with my little girl and a thoroughly scrumptious breakfast. Win win.

Phoenix High Life -Elements

As a food lover, there is nothing better than going to a restaurant that leaves an indelible impression on the soul. Great food, all by itself, is impressive enough but combine great service in a terrific venue with a rock star celebrity chef and you might find yourself at Elements in Phoenix, Arizona. Elegant, sharp and inspiring are just a few words that can describe the sense that you get as you drive into the Sanctuary Resort and Spa nestled gently into the foothills of Camelback Mountain. Set off any main road yet only 20 minutes from downtown, this place feels secluded. The Frank Lloyd Write inspired design looks more like art than architecture. A cascade of buildings blends seamlessly into the hillside and I’m targeting just one.

Elements is the creation of Chef Beau MacMillan. Recognized for his work in other noteworthy kitchens around the country, MacMillan was recruited to Arizona in the late 90’s to reinvent the offerings at this transitional property. After a major renovation, Sanctuary and Elements were born and MacMillan would soon be recognized as a major player on the national food stage. His offerings are seasonal, clean and above all else, creative. A few years ago, MacMillan defeated Bobby Flay in Food Network’s Kitchen Stadium in Battle Kobe Beef. Since then he has appeared on numerous programs including the first season of Worst Cooks in America opposite Ann Burrell as the cooking mentor for ridiculously bad cooks. As his face becomes more known to the foodie community, his food remains constant and delicious.

A few years ago my mother and I dropped into Elements to simply have a cocktail and appreciate the views. We sat and relaxed sipping Martinis while chatting and taking in the dessert sun. I recall thinking that I’d really like to get back for a meal. Now my time had come. Visiting on business, we planned this dinner night a week or so in advance. After picking me up from the hotel, Mom and I met my brother, David, and his girlfriend, Brianne at the Sanctuary. The first thing you appreciate when walking into Elements is the expansive appearance of the room perpetuated by the all glass walls. The desert views are breathtaking as the sun sets beyond the looming rock formations above and valley below. This is just the beginning of a spectacular dining experience. The only disappointment I can claim was that Chef MacMillan had just left for the day. I was hoping to meet him but I guess I would have to settle for his food.



Seated against the desert backdrop along the wall, I perused the menu with great excitement. The menu design is exquisitely simple with the focus on clean fresh preparation. Things like butter seared scallops and bacon wrapped filet are dishes that can be found in plenty of restaurants but the preparation and attention to detail are the hallmarks that Elements is known for. My appetizer was Foie Gras 2 ways.

A creamy Foie Gras custard was topped with a perfectly seared Foie Gras slice. Atop that was a vanilla quince compote and dotting the surrounding plate were a few pink peppercorn caramels. In 2 sentences, I described every ingredient in this dish yet this preparation was beyond elegant and most delicious. Brianne’s beef carpaccio looked perfect too, albeit a bit smaller of a carpaccio than I’m used to seeing. The entrée I chose was Hawaiian Opah.

This large Pacific fish is much like tuna with a slightly milder flavor. My first and only other experience with this fish was in Hawaii some years ago and I’m glad to have found it on a mainland menu. Seared on the outside with a light pink flesh on the inside, this buttery Opah was akin to fatty tuna belly. I immediately thought that I need to get back to Hawaii. Served with the fish was a crispy sushi rice cake topped with some rock shrimp and pickled cucumber. I thought the dish was perfectly prepared and I was able to successfully reproduce the rice dish at home. It was amazingly simple but delicious. Even Lisa liked it. The dessert menu, which I typically shy away from, was also an eclectic treat. Dessert wines, teas and the remerging dessert cheese course are available. I went with the pumpkin and cream cheese mouse while David did the Bananas Foster.

Again, perfection. A cinnamon, white hot chocolate was served alongside my beautiful piece of cake that was unlike any hot chocolate I’ve ever tasted. I loved the spice with flavors that reminded me of hot spiced cider, only in chocolate. What a wonderful way to round out a great dining experience.

I have to say, this restaurant is a destination unto itself. Nowhere else that I’ve eaten in Phoenix combines such scenery with great culinary acumen. You will, however, be set back a bit by a visit to Elements. The average appetizer or salad averages around $15 and the entrée is about $32. Dinner for 4 with a great bottle of wine and a few cocktails was just over $500 but our wine was $100. While there are plenty of places in this city to get a great meal at a fraction of the price, Elements is a rare gem that should be savored. Popping into the bar for a cocktail and an appetizer or salad would be a very affordable way to soak in the ambience. There was plenty of the dressed up stuffy crowd but there were also people like me wearing jeans and just enjoying the night. It is a resort after all. I did love this place and this night. There is no better way to enjoy the company of family than over a great meal and Elements helped us fit that bill.

On the Road in Phoenix -Check Out Durant's Steakhouse

I’ve written about steaks before; several times, in fact. Occasionally, it just begs revisiting. This is one of those times. After all, if you had to pick out the quintessential American meal, it certainly would have to involve a steak. As a young boy we made regular visits to Ponderosa Steak House and I believed that was as good as it got. Not only was there a never-ending salad bar but the smell of searing beef met you at the door where you’d get into a line with your tray and prepare to order. You could see the flames rising from the grill behind the counter where the steaks were being prepared. While I admire my parents for introducing me to this meaty atmosphere, I’ve come a long way since then. I do admit to visiting these economical, family friendly steak venues over the years and it is always somewhat nostalgic. The difference between a food lover and a food snob is the ability to appreciate a meal for what it is. Those meals and those days will always hold a special place in my heart. As I’ve grown, however, and had the great pleasure to travel and explore most corners of the US, I’ve encountered lots of beef. I’m sure I’m not the only non-vegan who just gets the craving for a great steak and as time has passed, I realize I’ve eaten at some very coveted steak houses. Many, I’ve blogged about and many I haven’t.

Let me tell you about last night. Durant’s Steak House is a Phoenix, Arizona icon. Established in 1950 in an unassuming, pink downtown building, Durant’s is one of a kind. Bawdy red velvet wall paper and Cherry wood interior is exactly what you’d expect from the era this was born.

I can only imagine the million dollar deals struck in this place over a great martini and a cigar. I’ve heard every celebrity that’s ever visited Phoenix has eaten here –but on this night, it was a mostly jovial, middle-aged, power-broker crowd who appeared to have plenty of disposable income. Stepping in from the valet, you enter through the kitchen on a red carpet. I initially thought we were going in the wrong door since we were actually in the middle of the kitchen but I learned this is part of the experience. We entered the dining room using the same swinging doors that the wait staff uses to usher in the food. I would guess that there has been more than one high priced steak that has met its demise at that door. Our booth was a small, two-seater next to the wonderfully ornate dark-wood bar. After taking in the entire sensory overload, the next thing of note is the service. Our waiter, Jeff, was one of the best servers I’ve ever had. His knowledge of the wine list and menu combined with his perfect timing when checking on us was unparalleled. When we were about to make a mistake by ordering some wines by the glass, he recommended a bottle of wine along the lines of what we wanted that actually saved us some money. By no means a wine expert, I thought this 2007 ZD Napa Valley Cabernet was awesome. I plan to look for it at home.

While waiting on our entrée, we were served a small round loaf of freshly baked bread topped with the most unusual but delicious accompaniment. Braised leeks with lots of garlic and butter made the bread absolutely addicting and it took all I could muster to turn down a second loaf when it was offered. Next was the most unique soup I’ve had in a while. Cheddar and three onion soup was perfectly sweet from the onions with that little bite form the cheddar. It would be so easy for a soup like this to be overly thick or even goopy, but this had a perfect creaminess that made one wanting for more after the cup was empty.

This bread was unbelievable

Now for the steak –Durant’s signature. I always toil over what cut to order. For me, there is no cut more appealing than another. It just depends on the mood. Tougher cuts like sirloin offer a more beefy, hearty flavor while Filet Mignon is more coveted for its butter like texture that can often be cut with a fork. This night I chose to split that line down the center and had the New York Strip. My knife slid through this perfect cut in a one directional slice. Inside, the medium rare center was the perfect balance of beef flavor, juiciness and texture. I polished off this steak and accompanying whipped garlic-mashed potatoes in very short order despite my stomach telling me that I might already be full. This was definitely an undo-the-top-trouser-button kind of meal and I couldn’t be happier. I would love to be able to describe the over-the-top dessert that would certainly have followed but that was not to be. We were done.

While Durant’s was an experience I thoroughly enjoyed, it was by no means exclusive. I’ve eaten at amazing steak houses both home and abroad and last night gave me pause. Where is the best steak? I could go online and order the same restaurant quality prime beef that I’ve eaten out. I even fancy myself a good enough cook to reproduce the perfect steak at a fraction of the cost. But as I gazed around the room last night, I wondered why so many people craved this high-priced environment to enjoy a steak. Is it a status symbol of affluence combined with testosterone-driven need for decadence? Well, in a word… Yes, I think. I didn’t see many 20-somethings. I certainly wouldn’t have fit in to a place like this in my 20’s either. Older and doing OK for myself, a dinner like this is symbolic. I’m good. I made it. I can do this and I guess, in some small way, I want everyone in the room to know it. That was the mood of the room and it explains why places like this exist in every major city in the US.

As I’ve said so many times, food is an experience. I fondly recall Ponderosa Steak House because it reminds me of my mom and dad. In that context, Durant’s has nothing on those memories. But if you’re in Phoenix, I suggest Durant’s for that one of a kind experience.

Short Rib Ravioli in a Creamy Wild Mushroom Sauce

There are a lot of foods that can be considered decadent, I think, but slow braised beef short ribs have to be near the top of the list. Beefy, hearty and oh so delicious, these unassuming looking slabs of meat cannot be overstated. I don’t know why I don’t make them more often but 3 or 4 times a year they find their way into my crock pot with a bottle of merlot and a few other things. About 6 hours later, I’ve got fall of the bone primal looking pieces of steaming beef ready to be paired with almost anything and the residual jus from the pot is like liquid gold. As perfect as they are simply accompanied by some creamy mashed potatoes, I recently was inspired to step up my game.

There’s always a story…

It all starts with Harry Potter. We’re fans. No, we’re not the robe wearing, wand wielding “Potheads” (as I’ve heard them called). We just like the books and have seen the movies. I also made it a point to check out the coffee shop where J.K. Rowling wrote a portion of the first book while I visited Edinburgh a few years ago. That’s probably the extent of my fan-hood. Lisa, on the other hand, takes it a step further. She’s listened to the audio books over and over. She knows the minutest characters and how each has woven his or her way into and out of the story. A few weeks ago, on the cusp of the release of the latest Potter installment, Lisa suggested we head over to Orlando on the release weekend. She wanted to check out the new Harry Potter exhibit that recently opened at Universal Studios then top it off by seeing the movie. The most interesting part is that she suggested we go without our 6-year-old daughter, Olivia. I was all in.

When we travel we usually try to get a reasonable hotel or use my travel points. It’s a real savings. On this trip, however, I wanted to stay somewhere special since we haven’t had an adult weekend away since Olivia’s birth. So I booked a room at the Loews Portofino Bay on the Universal Studios property. If you’re looking for an economical way to stay in the Orlando resort area –and there are great savings out there –this is not your hotel. Designed to replicate an experience on the Italian Riviera in its namesake’s fishing village, Loews has spared no expense in creating this magnificent property. From the multicolored fishing boats in the bay, to the exquisite Italian architecture, to the imported furniture, to the peaceful, elegant gardens, this place takes its northern Italian roots seriously. Even the staff has been imported –the valet provides the first of the many “buongiorno’s” you will receive.

I’d love to detail our experiences of the day but suffice to say: Butter Beer is worth tasting, the movie was good and the Harry Potter ride is a must.

Butter Beer with the Hogwarts Express Conductor

The village of Hogsmead is really cool too. The pinnacle of my weekend, though, was Bice Ristorante at the Loews. What began in 1926 as a small cucina in Milan has erupted into an empire of fine dining restaurants that can be found in exclusive enclaves on six continents. Beatrice Ruggeri, or Bice (pronounced “Bee-Shay”), began making fresh pastas and northern Italian cuisine in a small trattoria and the rest is history. The Orlando version adds the magic that can only be found in the resorts of this tourist Mecca. Elegant architecture, exquisite attention to detail and, of course, the imported Italian staff all combines to enhance the already perfect food. Only in Orlando can folks get away with flip flops and shorts in a place like this. In any other city, a dinner jacket would be a must.
My meal was an exploration in beef. A simple but perfect tenderloin carpaccio with truffle Dijon dressing, artichoke and arugula salad was a mouthwatering starter. I will almost always order this paper-thin sliced raw beef appetizer. It simply melts in your mouth and that is always a good thing. I had a difficult time choosing the entrée, though. I came very close to ordering the double-cut veal chop but with all the pastas being made fresh daily, I had to go the pasta route. I chose the ravioli stuffed with beef short rib and spinach in a creamy mushroom, Marsala wine sauce. I’ve wondered for years what I’d like my last meal to be and I may have found it. Of course, I should have been able to put it together all along. Fresh made pasta combined with the rich decadent short rib filling and a sauce of creamy, earthy yet not too heavy sauce should have been a no brainer. But until now, I just didn’t make the connection. If there is a heaven, this is on the menu.

Stepping down off the cloud, we returned home but I was obsessed with recreating this dish or at least some version of it. I’ll admit, I forgot the spinach and rather than Marsala, I chose the jus from the braised short ribs. That’s because the jus was a combination of the beef juices and the entire bottle of wine I braised the short ribs in for 6 hours. This is not a simple dish to make. I did it in 2 days although each trip to the kitchen was quite brief. Fresh Won Ton wrappers are an excellent substitute for making your own pasta but eating this dish stepped up my time table for ordering my pasta maker –it should be here any day now. I’ll detail my version in the recipe below but the basics are: braise the ribs, let them cool, stuff the pasta, make the sauce and serve.

If a good meal makes you happy, this will make you giddy. It is worth the time you put in. Thank you J.K. Rowling and Thank You Harry Potter!!

Short Rib Ravioli in a Creamy Mushroom Sauce

5 large short ribs
2 carrots peeled and chopped
1 onion sliced
3 cloves garlic, smashed
A few sprigs of Thyme
1 bottle of Merlot
32 Wonton wrappers
Fresh grated parmesan cheese
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
3 cups wild mushrooms (such as Cremini and Oyster)
1½ - 2 cups heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

In a crock pot combine the short ribs, onion, carrot, garlic and thyme with the wine. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Cover and cook for 6 hours. Remove ribs to a plate and allow to cool until you can easily handle. Shred the meat by hand taking care to discard any remaining large pieces of fat. Set aside. Strain the liquid and discard the solids. Put the jus in the refrigerator. Once the jus has chilled (a couple of hours at least), a layer of solid fat will have formed on the top. Using a spoon, remove this fat and discard, retaining just the liquid. Rewarm the short rib meat in a skillet over low heat with a few tablespoons of the jus.

To assemble the ravioli:
Place a teaspoon of the meat in a won ton wrapper and just a light shaving of parmesan atop. Take a second wonton wrapper and wet the outer edge with water. Seal the ravioli taking care to expel the air and not tearing the wrapper. This took me a little practice to get right. Repeat to finish the ravioli. Place in a pot of very lightly boiling water for no more than 1-2 minutes. Do this in small batches of 3-4 ravioli so they do not stick. Drain and set aside with ravioli not touching so they do not stick.

For the sauce:
In a large sauté pan over medium heat, add the butter and olive oil. Once heated add the mushrooms and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of the jus and reduce by half. About 15 minutes. Add the cream, reduce heat and again reduce by ½ taking care not to allow the cream to burn.

Putting it all together:
Add the ravioli to the pan with the cream sauce. Allow ravioli to rewarm and be coated by the sauce and serve.

A fresh baguette for that amazing mushroom sauce would be perfect!!

Gravlax

Well I hope all had a terrific Thanksgiving. It was one of my best. This year the family all gathered at my house. It was quite traditional with an abundance of food followed by couch time and plenty of football. We ate, drank, laughed, talked, played cards and just savored the moment. As my kids get older, I am painfully aware that days like this are very finite. The oldest 3 are all at an age that they’ll be starting their own families soon and pulled in other directions. With that in mind, this holiday was special.

Although most of the menu was a cornucopia of tradition, I also prepared one of my favorite snacks to nibble on as I worked that’s as far from any traditional Thanksgiving menu item that I’m aware of. If you like Salmon, you’ll love Gravlax. It’s not something I’d even heard of until a few years ago but once I prepared it, I was hooked. Traditional Gravlax is Salmon cured in salt, sugar and dill for at least 24 hours. It comes to us from our tall, blond and beautiful friends in the Norse countries. Back in the Middle Ages, not only was the Salmon packed in this salt mix, it was also buried in the sand just below the high tide line at the ocean’s edge to allow it to ferment. Gravlax literally translated means “buried Salmon”. Somewhere along the way, the fermentation idea was discarded and we have the Gravlax that is served today. The salt draws the moisture from the outer edges of the fish leaving just a slight leathery texture followed by a creamy finish from the inside. The Salmon-y flavor is enhanced by perfect saltiness with hints of lemon (which is added in most modern preparations) and dill. Gravlax can be served in many different ways. Here you see that I’ve simply put it on a piece of Pumpernickel bread with dill and capers. A thin slice of lemon and some red onion would also be delicious. I sometimes add it to scrambled eggs as a takeoff from one of my favorite breakfasts in Scotland –scrambled eggs with smoked Salmon.

Of course I Googled Gravlax to see all of the different ways folks make it. There are plenty but salt, sugar and dill seem pretty consistent. A chef I met in Canada uses thinly sliced beets to impart a beautiful red hue as well a unique and delicious twist. As I mentioned, lemon is common but I imagine other citrus would add a tasty acidity as well. You be the judge but the basic texture and creaminess will be the same.

The best reason to talk about Gravlax during the holiday season is that it’s absolutely the easiest thing I know how to make. Unless you plan on serving your guests chips when they arrive, you won’t find a simpler or more elegant starter. Obviously this has to cure for a day or two (I think two is best) so you’ll prepare it well in advance and not have to think about it again. The magic will happen in your refrigerator (unless you choose to bury it at the beach).

I think it’s time to start a new tradition.

Gravlax

1 3½-4 lb Salmon fillet (pin bones and skin removed)
2 cups salt
1 cup sugar
1 lemon thinly sliced
1 cup fresh dill, very coarsely chopped

Combine the salt, sugar and dill. On a long baking sheet, cut a piece of cellophane that is big enough to wrap the entire piece of fish and lay that out as a base (you may need 2 pieces). Place enough mixture on the bottom so that all of the fish touching the bottom will be covered. Lay the Salmon down on the mixture. Pour the rest of the cure over the top and add the lemon slices across the top. Laying the lemon on the fish will give it more lemon flavor but will discolor the parts of the fish it touches. Wrap tightly in the cellophane. Lay a second baking sheet on the top and weigh down. I use a heavy cast iron skillet but 1 or 2 foil wrapped bricks would be fine too. Place in the refrigerator for 24-48 hours.

When ready to slice, remove Salmon from the cure and wash thoroughly. Pat dry. Using a sharp knife, make very thin slices at a 45 degree angle.

Serve in any of the ways described above or create your own wonderful idea.

It's Not About the Stuffed Peppers... It's the Story

It has been a while, my dear friend. I’ve been away from this far too long. My path over the last couple of years took me away from the things that have meant the most to me and I’m very pleased to be back. I won’t bore you with the details but suffice to say, I have had a tremendous opportunity to reflect. And now with the holiday season at our door step and slightly crisper air outside, the timing couldn’t be more perfect to revisit my blog. So here it goes…

If you were to do a web search for Emily V. Thornton, or any facsimile of her name, you’ll get many hits. I tried. You won’t, however, find the person I’m referring to. There could be several reasons for this. Perhaps it’s because she never owned a computer, or because she lived a humble life, or because her only claim to fame was spending the first half of her life wanting to raise a child and the last half enjoying doing just that. The last of four children, Emily Vanide Fealser was born to Austrian immigrants in a small house in Erie, Pennsylvania in 1924. Her father, Amos, ran the family dry cleaning business while her mother, Mary, tended to raising the family. Mary was a very proper woman who was never seen without her light makeup or in anything except a dress. The idea of trousers was appalling to her. She was a nurturing mother whose children all grew up to live very successful lives in and around the blue collar city of Erie.

As time went by, as time inevitably does, Emma grew wary of life in the declining industrial city so she struck out and away. After a failed marriage, some time in both California and Florida, and fast approaching her 40’s, she found herself back in Erie. There she met a salesman. Louis sold everything from insurance to cars to real estate. He followed the money and had done pretty well for himself in doing so. One of the most affable and free spirited people she’d ever met, Emma fell for him. During a cross country road trip in the mid 60’s, they eloped in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Louis and Emma’s story is full of fun, adventure and happiness but they both really wanted to have a child. Unable to conceive, they decided on adoption. This is where I come into the story… and I promise I’ll get to the food soon enough. In October of 1966, they took home a 3 day old baby boy that they named Louis Thornton Jr. –Me. While I wish I could have known my parents when they were younger, because they sounded like a lot of fun, I was the benefactor of all of the attention and love that comes with more mature parents.

Now to the food… Most of what we ate was out of convenience. Mom was not the June Cleaver type. By the time she started a family, she had not honed her domestic skills. She’d been busy enjoying life. I kind of admire that about her. I remember lots of Kielbasa braised away with cabbage and caraway seeds served with horseradish. For lunch, there might be small pumpernickel rounds with limburger cheese, a thin slice of onion and sprinkled with paprika. Breakfast was raisin bread toast with jam and butter. Most of my friends didn’t stay for dinner but this is what I knew and I enjoyed it. In fact, I’ve never had a problem trying new things and I believe my mom and grandmother played a huge part in my interest in all things food.

Now I’ve enjoyed street food as well as fine dining in all parts of the world. From Dim Sum in Hong Kong to Fish and Chips on the coast of Britain, from San Francisco to New York to Miami, I have been blessed to be able to taste the flavors of so many places and cultures. Still, if you ask me about what I liked as a kid, the litany might be extremely unimpressive to any other foodie. Some years ago, my mom and I were talking and she mentioned that she hadn’t cooked for me in a while and she wanted to. Being questioned, I told her that I really missed her stuffed peppers. A few days later, I walked into mom and dad’s house and the smells made me feel like I was 10 again. It may have been that long since mom made them for me.

While I realize there is nothing auspicious, unique or remotely special about a stuffed peppers, to me this was as wonderful a meal as I’d ever had. If rice, meat and spices combined in a pepper with tomato sauce harkens Hamburger Helper to you, I understand. To me, it’s a foodie way to sum up the love and care that my mom had for me. It was also the last meal she would ever cook for me. Two months after the birth of my youngest daughter, now 6 years old, and one month after mom’s 80th birthday, she passed away suddenly. While failing in her later years, her life had been one that she enjoyed. She’d had fun. Her laugh was as jovial on the last day we spoke as I remembered almost 4 decades earlier. My father, now 91 years old, is still surviving and lives in a little condo with his dog Lucky. The picture frames are full of the good times he and my mother had.

So while I’m offering up to you today a simple recipe that you can download from just about any cooking site, it’s the story that matters to me. I wish I could tell you I pulled this from an old recipe box (mom did have one). That might make the story a little better but that’s not really how things worked in our family. While I adapted this recipe myself, I still got a little choked up putting it on the plate. This is the first stuffed pepper I’ve had since mom made them for me. It was heaven.

Stuffed Bell Peppers



Note: My mom used only ground beef. I chose equal parts ground beef, pork and veal. Some recipes will call for you to brown the meat before stuffing the pepper but I like the juices from the meat to be a part of the sauce. Cooking time is longer stuffing the peppers with raw meat so if you’re in a hurry, browning the meat first will save about 45 minutes of baking time. Lastly, I simmer the sauce separately beforehand. This is another step that can be omitted but I think it develops the flavors a little more.

4 bell peppers, any color
1 ½ cups cooked long grain white rice
½ lb ground beef
½ lb ground pork
½ lb ground veal
1 medium onion diced, divided
4 cloves garlic diced, divided
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp cumin
1 egg
28 oz can crushed tomatoes
Fresh grated parmesan cheese to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cut the tops off the peppers (reserve one or two tops) and remove the seeds and ribs. Blanch the peppers in the water making sure to submerge entire pepper. Remove to an ice bath after 2 minutes. Dice the reserved pepper tops.

In a large sauté pan, sauté ½ of the onion and ½ of the garlic in a tsp of olive oil over medium heat just until fragrant. Add the can of tomatoes, reduce heat to low and simmer. Season with salt and pepper.

In a mixing bowl, combine the rice, ground meat, diced pepper tops, remaining onions and garlic along with the egg, paprika, cumin and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stuff each pepper with meat and rice mixture. If there is left over mixture, add it to the sauce.

Arrange the stuffed peppers in a baking dish upright. Pour the sauce over the top of the peppers after it has simmered 10-15 minutes. Grate a layer of fresh parmesan cheese over the top and bake for an hour or until the internal temperature of the pepper is 160 degrees.

Let rest for 10 minutes and serve.

Serves 4.